Paris

Time of year: August

Length: 3 nights

Approximate hotel and train costs: £400–£500 Approx

Good for: Couples or friends, iconic sights, history and culture

Why visit Paris?

Paris had been on our list for a long time, but we’d put it off a couple of times. The time finally felt right to visit this big city, with its mix of culture and famous sights like the Eiffel Tower. I’d always imagined us walking along the Seine, taking in everything around us, riding one of the older Metro trains where you open the door yourself, and discovering whatever else might make us smile.

Accommodation and travel

We arrived at Gare du Nord by Eurostar. The journey took around two hours, though unfortunately we had a 90-minute delay before boarding, which cut into our time in Paris. The train itself was comfortable and relaxing, and travelling by rail felt much easier than dealing with airport security and all the other steps involved in flying.

We stayed at a Timhotel near Gare de l’Est. Our room was clean and comfortable, and breakfast was decent. For the time of year and our budget, we felt we’d done well with the accommodation and thought it was good value. There was a Metro station a few minutes’ walk from the hotel, which made it easy to get around.

Discovering Paris

Our visit coincided with the Paralympic Games, so the city had a real buzz about it, along with heightened security. After arriving in central Paris by Metro, we decided to walk along the Seine, starting near the National Assembly.

It wasn’t long before we reached the Louvre. We left the river for a closer look and, after passing through an archway, saw the glass pyramid at the museum entrance. I loved its unusual shape, which also took me back to seeing it in films. It stood out beautifully in the middle of the courtyard, its modern design set against the traditional palace. We didn’t feel drawn to go in and see the Mona Lisa, as it isn’t really our thing, and there were other places higher on our list.

As we walked through the Tuileries Garden, we spotted a floating orb with what looked like burning embers beneath it. When we got closer, we realised it was the Olympic Cauldron. The Olympic rings displayed on nearby buildings were another clue. It was an impressive sight and drew plenty of attention from visitors. I was left wondering how the embers below didn’t burn or mark the orb above.

A visit to Notre-Dame was also on our list. There was still a lot of reconstruction work underway after the fire, with some areas screened off. There was plenty to see, but the work did take away a little of its fairytale feel.

We also found the Luxembourg Gardens, with a stunning palace on the grounds. It was a lovely place to stop for a coffee and unwind while taking in the beautifully kept gardens. There was everything from palm trees and lakes to fountains and tree-lined lawns. I felt all my park needs had been fulfilled. As we left, we passed a miniature Statue of Liberty on a plinth—small, at least compared with the New York version.

We wandered along the Champs-Élysées, eating ice cream and catching the smell of hot pavement in the summer air, until we reached the Arc de Triomphe. Getting to the centre looked tricky at first, but then we spotted the tunnel that passes beneath the roundabout. Tickets for the top were available there, but we decided against it because of the crowds and wait times.

Walking around the monument, we could take in the detailed marble sculptures and impressive stonework. I remember thinking it was like Marble Arch’s larger, more sophisticated and distinguished cousin.

The Eiffel Tower

Seeing the Eiffel Tower’s light display after dark was a magical highlight. It’s one of the prettiest structures and light displays we’ve ever seen. The first time we saw it, we were mesmerised. As the lights came on, there was a faint gasp from visitors all around us—and I realised I was joining in.

Watching from a bridge over the river felt like a special moment, and a hundred times better than seeing it on TV at New Year. We got hooked on the hourly displays and kept coming back each evening, finding different places to watch from.

Army Museum and Hôtel des Invalides

The Army Museum and Hôtel des Invalides sit within the same complex. When we arrived at the museum, it was surrounded by a dry moat, with rows of cannons pointing out from the fortified walls. It felt like entering a long-serving military site.

The museum has a large central courtyard, with exhibits covering different periods and themes. You could easily spend a whole day there if it interests you. We didn’t see everything, but enjoyed the medieval armour, a model showing trench warfare and a very blinged-up silver machine gun in a display case.

One exhibit I found particularly moving was dedicated to French Resistance fighters during the Second World War. Learning about their determination and defiance left me inspired by what they did and the risks they took. I kept looking at the faces in the portraits and thinking about the courage it must have taken to fight the occupying forces.

Further into the complex, Hôtel des Invalides is a grand neoclassical building, with a tall stone dome and an imposing presence. Inside, it has all the magnificence you’d expect. At its centre is a sunken circular space containing Napoleon’s tomb, displayed in all its stately finery. We went down to the lower level to see it from another angle, and I remember thinking the tomb looked surprisingly short from the side.

We struggled to leave the site. After trying several ways out, we realised the only exit was the way we’d come in, through the museum. Our poor feet!

Panthéon

The Panthéon is another beautiful, grand building, with a classical style that reminded us of Hôtel des Invalides. The walls are covered with paintings depicting stories from French history, and the architecture and statues are stunning throughout.

In the centre, a pendulum swings beneath the vast dome. I didn’t know what it was at first, but it’s Foucault’s pendulum, demonstrating the Earth’s rotation. Downstairs, we explored the crypt, where notable French figures are buried. It was quiet, as you’d expect. I didn’t recognise many of the names, being unfamiliar with much of French history, but Marie Curie and a couple of others stood out.

Good to know

· For a brilliant view over the city, try the Montparnasse Tower. We found it affordable, and the sky deck was quieter than we expected. There’s also an indoor observatory and café. The views were the best we had in Paris, taking in all the major sights from above.

· A public transport pass is handy in such a large city. Even with the Metro, we still averaged around 30,000 steps most days.

· If you want to see palaces, Paris is the place. They seemed to be everywhere we went.

So, how did Paris score?

Things to do — 10/10: There’s an enormous amount to see and do, from world-famous landmarks and museums to neighbourhoods and simply exploring the city.

Getting around — 9/10: The Metro makes it easy to get around, and many central areas are great to explore on foot.

Food and drink — 8/10: Plenty of choice, with something for every taste and budget.

Value for money — 7/10: Paris can be expensive, particularly around the major attractions, but there are plenty of ways to keep costs under control.

Overall experience — 9/10: Paris delivered the classic city break we were looking for, with plenty to see and enough atmosphere to keep us coming back.

What would I do differently?

We’d arrange tickets for Versailles earlier. We only realised the night before that it was closed on the Sunday we’d planned to visit. Lesson learned!

Would I visit Paris again?

Yes, definitely. There’s still a lot we’d like to see, including Versailles and Sacré-Cœur.

What made me laugh

· Some of the tacky-looking Olympic souvenirs—and then the prices they were charging for them.

· Reading “Le Big Mac” on a menu board at a well-known burger chain and realising the only difference from back home was the “Le”.

Favourite thing

Standing on the Montparnasse Tower sky deck, looking out over the city and thinking, we’re finally doing Paris.

“Standing on the banks of the Seine as it turned 9 p.m., watching the Eiffel Tower light up, reminded us why we’d come to this great city.”