Amsterdam

Time of year: January

Length: 3 nights

Approximate budget: £450–£550

Good for: Canal-side wandering, history and a lively night out

Why Amsterdam?

Amsterdam had always been on our bucket list. We’d heard mixed reviews, which only made us more curious to see what it was like for ourselves

Accommodation and travel

We arrived at Schiphol after a 45-minute flight, with no problems. The train transfer from the airport was straightforward, with regular services, and we reached Amsterdam Centraal in around 20 minutes. As soon as we left the station, we found the tram terminal. It was chilly, but still mild for the time of year.

We stayed at a Max Brown hotel in the Museum Quarter, in a smart-looking neighbourhood. The building had a townhouse feel that fitted in with the tree-lined street. Inside, it had a modern bistro feel, and our room was comfortable. Breakfast was the usual continental style and included in the price. Nothing exciting, but it was perfectly fine.

Discovering Amsterdam

This trip was more about exploring the city and seeing what was on offer. The tram network made getting around really easy. We used it most days and found the travel card handy because of where our hotel was, although much of the city is walkable.

We looked at the Rijksmuseum and some of the other attractions near our hotel, but found them a bit pricey and decided to give them a miss. Instead, we focused on taking in the city and its atmosphere rather than ushering ourselves from one attraction to the next.

We noticed that many of the townhouses in our neighbourhood had large windows, so you could see right through to the back of the buildings. We later heard this was linked to the Dutch idea of having nothing to hide. Whether or not that’s the full story, it gave me the impression of an open and welcoming city.

Anne Frank House

We wanted to understand more about Anne Frank’s story and the persecution Jewish people faced during the Nazi occupation. We managed to book last-minute tickets for the house and museum.

There was an informative introduction when we arrived, and we saw objects from the period, including a one-million-mark banknote. We were completely absorbed by Anne Frank’s story and the experiences of Jewish people who went into hiding during the Nazi occupation. I found it difficult to imagine what it would have been like to live through that time.

Walking through the bookcase into the hidden annex felt like uncovering the secret life on the other side of the wall. I was struck by the idea of being hidden in plain sight, and felt anxious thinking about what it must have been like for the people living there. The visit was very thought-provoking, and we’d recommend it to anyone visiting the city.

The Canal District by day

We came back to the canal district a few times. The busier connecting streets were always full of visitors, while the side lanes felt quieter, with people relaxing in cafés along the water and sightseeing boats passing by.

Cycling is a big part of life here, and we had a few near misses with cyclists speeding down their lanes. We were in unfamiliar territory and still figuring out where to look, so after a couple of close calls, I became much more alert. I did have a passing thought about ending up as cycle roadkill!

The Canal District by night

In the evening, the Red Light District came alive with bars, shops and sex workers in the windows. It was a complete contrast to the daytime and reminded me of an intense

night out in Soho, with canals running through the middle.

As we shuffled along one lane among the tourists, I heard tapping on the window beside me. One of the sex workers was trying to get my attention. I smiled, nodded and kept shuffling along with the rest of the crowd.

We stopped at a few bars in the centre of the district to relax. It was great to have a few beers in a busy but laid-back bar, away from the crowds on the streets. Later in the evening, the area seemed to quieten down, with the occasional sound of people enjoying themselves in the background.

The bridges and canal paths looked especially pretty at night, lit up with fairy lights that made us smile.

Sex Museum

We had a spare moment while passing by, so we decided to visit. It had all the usual paraphernalia you might expect, along with some quirky exhibits and a few humorous surprises.

On the stairs, there was a backside exhibit on the wall that made a raspberry noise whenever its sensor was triggered. It had all of us chuckling as we went past. I couldn’t help wondering who’d come up with the idea, but they must have had a good sense of humour.

NEMO Science Museum

We decided to visit here on a rainy morning. The museum’s exterior looked like a giant container ship, which caught our attention and made it seem as though it was docked beside the water.

The museum was spread over several levels, with interesting exhibits and interactive displays to try. It seemed ideal for families and was geared more towards younger visitors.

Good to know

• Don’t be surprised if your beer glass isn’t filled to the top. We were told that’s how beer is served in the Netherlands.

• Take a walk through the canal district both during the day and in the evening to see how different it feels.

• Dam Square and the Royal Palace are worth a look if you’re walking through the area. We sat there, taking in the old buildings and our surroundings while eating some very hot patat—Dutch fries.

• The Lego Store has a great rotating windmill display in the front window. It’s worth a look if you’re nearby, and the shop itself is decent if Lego is your thing.

• The Jordaan is a lovely area to wander around. We enjoyed it, and it felt quieter than some of the other areas we visited.

So How Did Amsterdam Score?

Things to Do — 8/10 Plenty to explore, from the canals and Jordaan to fascinating historical sights and a few quirky surprises along the way.

Getting Around — 9/10 Trams and trains made getting around straightforward, with plenty of the central areas enjoyable to explore on foot.

Food & Drink — 8/10 A good mix of food options, with Dutch fries, excellent pizza and relaxed canal-side bars standing out.

Value for Money — 7/10 Amsterdam can be expensive, particularly for major attractions, although we found decent value in our hotel and enjoyed plenty without spending a fortune.

Overall Experience — 7/10 We enjoyed Amsterdam's canals and relaxed atmosphere, but it didn't quite capture our imagination enough to make us rush back.

What would I do differently?

Not much, really. We took it easy and did things when we felt like it.

We might have skipped the science museum and found a different indoor attraction instead. That said, it worked out fine on a rainy morning.

Would I visit Amsterdam again?

Honestly, I wouldn’t be in a rush to go back. Not for any bad reason—it was a decent place, and we wanted to experience it. Now we have.

What made me laugh

• The cube-shaped seat in our room collapsed underneath me. The hotel staff were great and let me swap it for a better one from the bar—a cheeky seat upgrade.

• Some of the quirky exhibits in the Sex Museum. I won’t spoil them.

Favourite thing

Walking past the Italian bakery window at lunchtime made us feel like kids in a sweet shop. The slices tasted just as good as they looked.

“We enjoyed Amsterdam at our own pace, exploring the canals, stopping for pizza and seeing what the city was like for ourselves.”