Prague

Prague

Time of year: September

Length: 4 nights

Approximate budget: £450 for two

Couples or friends, history, culture and architecture

Why Prague?

When we booked Prague, we knew about the iconic castle complex, Charles Bridge and a few other sights. We arrived without much of a plan and decided to play it by ear. We were excited to see what the city had to offer, and that feeling only grew as the trip got closer.

Accommodation and travel

Getting from Prague Airport went smoothly. We took the Airport Express bus for a few stops, then transferred to the Metro to continue into the city centre. We thought the bus-and-Metro combination might be an unnecessary hassle, but it turned out to be much easier than we’d expected.

Our hotel was spot on, just a block from Wenceslas Square. The room was stylish and spacious, and it’s always handy to have a fridge for cold drinks and to stop your chocolate supply melting. Prague’s accommodation offered a lot for the money, and we were pleasantly surprised by the standard of our room. Breakfast had a good selection, with a few changes each morning, which was a nice way to start the day.

Discovering Prague

When we first arrived at Wenceslas Square, we were by the National Museum, which sits high at the top of the square. It became a useful landmark and helped us get our bearings before heading out to explore each day.

The square is more of a tree-lined boulevard, with pedestrian areas and the occasional fountain to cool you down as you pass. Modern chain stores line the sides, while the trees offered welcome shade from the September sun. Towards the far end, the buildings became more ornate, and the city’s classical architecture began to reveal itself with every step.

In the Old Town, new and old seemed to meet as we crossed a street and slipped into narrower lanes full of boutique shops, restaurants and bars. The lanes opened onto the main square, where we found the Astronomical Clock. Getting across the square was a bit of a struggle: it was a few minutes before 3 p.m., and the clock was about to put on its show for the waiting crowd.

At 3, wooden figures appeared to the sound of a few chimes. It was charming and made me smile, though I couldn’t help feeling a little underwhelmed by the end. We soon realised it was best to avoid this area on the hour if we didn’t want to get caught up in the crowd.

We found the Old Town Square a charming place to spend time, with medieval buildings alongside classical and quirkier architecture. I remember thinking the cathedral looked a little odd, with a row of buildings built in front of it. To find the main entrance, you walk down a cosy passage lined with gift shops.

The weather was warm, so we were glad to find water-misting points where we could cool our arms and faces. Some of the shopping arcades also led to hidden corners at the other end. We came across little courtyards and gardens and felt as though we’d found a few quieter spots away from the crowds.

We enjoyed taking it easy on this trip. We stopped at a few bars in the Old Town to relax and watch the day go by. Over a few Czech beers, we started to put together a rough itinerary. There was no need to rush.

Museums and little discoveries

While wandering around, we passed the Museum of Sex and decided to take a look out of curiosity. It reminded us of places we’d seen in Amsterdam, but there were also some genuinely interesting exhibits about how attitudes towards sexuality have changed over time. I did wince at a few of the items on display.

We also visited the Communist Museum, which gave us an informative look at life behind the Iron Curtain. A huge Soviet star on the ceiling made a particularly strong impression as we walked through one of the exhibits. There were also some interesting reconstructed scenes showing what shops and schools were like at the time.

We ended the day on a lighter note at the Lego Museum. The shop is at street level, with the museum downstairs in the basement. There were lots of great displays, including some that took me straight back to being a kid. I found myself reminiscing about playing with some of the sets years ago. It’s well worth a visit if you like Lego.

The river and Charles Bridge

The riverside had a relaxed atmosphere, with views of Charles Bridge and its statues set on columns along the walkway. We spent some time on the bridge, looking at the statues glistening in the sunshine and seeing how well they fitted against the bridge and castle backdrop.

There were other interesting sights along the river too, including the Dancing House and a giant pair of trainers displayed on a plinth in the water. That one seemed a bit random.

We strolled down to a river island and hired a pedalo for an hour. It was fun, and when we paused on the water, we got to enjoy Prague from a swan’s-eye view.

A day at Prague Castle

We set aside a day to visit Prague Castle. After a mammoth climb up steps and ramps, we think we approached via the East Gate. It was a tiring way up, but the views made it worthwhile: rows of red rooftops stretched out below us, with the city beyond. There were plenty of places to stop and take it all in.

At least the route gave us a chance to stop at a few viewpoints and admire the river and Old Town from above. That made the climb feel worthwhile.

The castle itself was stunning, with the medieval, old-world charm you’d expect. I remember taking a break in the shade and admiring the detail in the stained glass at the back of the cathedral. Buying tickets took a while, and we queued in the late-morning sun. It felt like we were wasting time, but there didn’t seem to be another option.

We visited most of the attractions within the castle grounds. Some were more interesting than others, but the cathedral had a special feel to it. As we shuffled along inside, I wondered what the hold-up was. Then I saw a saint’s mausoleum lined in silver, where people had stopped to pay their respects.

The palace section was less interesting for us. Apart from some grand rooms, there wasn’t much to see: mostly a series of empty halls and rooms. I found myself shuffling along again and accidentally bumped into the woman in front of me, who had a rucksack. When I did it a second time, she took it off. I couldn’t help wondering if she thought I was a pickpocket!

Good to know

• We stayed in Prague 2, which worked well for us. It was just outside the main drag but still close enough to walk into the centre.

  
  

• The trams and Metro are easy to navigate, and there’s a handy app for planning journeys. Most places in the centre are walkable, though.

  
  

• I expected the city to be rowdy at night because of the hen and stag parties, but we didn’t find it too wild. The atmosphere was good.

  
  

So, how did Prague score?

Things to do — 9/10: There’s plenty to explore, from the Old Town and Charles Bridge to Prague Castle, the river and all the smaller discoveries along the way.

Getting around — 9/10: The centre is very walkable, and there’s good public transport when you want to go further afield.

Food and drink — 9/10: Lots of choice, great Czech food, plenty of international options and, of course, lots of chances to enjoy a cold Czech beer.

Value for money — 9/10: Prague felt like very good value, with plenty to see and do without constantly watching the pennies.

Overall experience — 9/10: We really enjoyed Prague and would happily return for another city break.

What would I do differently?

We probably wouldn’t bother with a travel pass next time. Everything in the centre is so walkable. We mainly used ours because we’d already paid for it and wanted to give our legs a rest.

Would I visit Prague again?

Yes, we’d love to go back in a few years. It was a relaxing break, and the city has plenty to offer everyone.

What made me laugh

• Walking around a building for ages looking for a supermarket, only to find it underground by the Metro.

  
  

• Hiring a pedalo and realising, after 10 minutes of pedalling, that we still had another 50 minutes to go. Our legs were not impressed.

  
  

Favourite thing

Sitting in the Old Town Square, watching everyone go about their day, with the sun shining and a cold Czech beer in hand.

“We came to Prague for the history, but it was the atmosphere, the wandering and the little discoveries that made this trip for us.”